Making a custom deck from an un-cut blank?
  • I am collecting the items I want to build a blue lmfp reissue as a nice old-school setup, to compliment my popsicle setup....but I want to see if I can make my perfect mix deck....old with some new.  I ordered a few un-cut 10" blanks, modern concave double kick.  I plan on using the lmfp as a template for everything but the nose, I am going to use my (shredded and needing replacement) hieroglyphics for the nose template.  I figure that will give me a lmfp shape with a 90s nose on a modern concave.

    Anyway, looking to see if anybody has done this and if any of you have any hints or words of wisdom for me.  I have read a million how-to's, but experienced input is always helpful.  My plan is to mark the template, use a good jigsaw to cut it out and a handheld belt sander to round the edges and smooth it out.  I was thinking of using the routing attachment to my dremel for the edge, but I think a belt sander will do a fine job.

    As far as graphics, I would love to recreate the lmfp bottom graphic, but I don't see how that would be possible.  So I might just go sticker/lacquer happy on the bottom.  I'm going to paint the top white, use the winged ripper sticker in it's proper location, and a few other stickers and clear tape for the top.  I always loved the stickers under clear on a white deck look.  

     
  • Who did you order the blanks from? Sounds like a cool idea.
  • http://skatepaige.com

    I read a few reviews about then taking forever to process orders, but I got all three blanks in 3 days. I ordered 3 10" uncut blanks, which are really just over 11" wide. Two were predrilled, one 15"wb the other 15.5", one undrilled. They are new school truck pattern. Wood feels solid, no hollow glue gaps.
  • I have been working with wood and wood working tools for a long time. I would suggest making a template of the shape you want.Since the shape will need to be profiled to the concave and angle of the tail / nose, you will have to sacrifice one of the blanks to do this. You can then use a heavy duty router to cut the shape out of any blank you need to after that. I build electric guitar bodies for fun and that is the easiest way to do it ( except they are flat and your deck is concaved and curved ). If you don't want to sacrifice a blank, get some heavy construction paper and 3m 77 sticky aerosol. You can then just stick your cutout shape to a blank and use a jigsaw / bandsaw to get the shape pretty close. Then you could use a belt sander / drum sander to get the shape right. I would then suggest a router with a 1/8" roundover to add smoothness to the top and bottom of the sides of the deck. Once that is done, just use a random orbital or hand sand to 220 grit smoothness. I would suggest sealing the sides of the deck with sanding sealer ( available at any decent paint store or ACE Hardware ). This will help the deck last longer when exposed to moisture. Hope this helped.
  • I made a deck from one of the Alien Workshop blanks around two years ago.  Apart from making sure your template is symmetrical, I found cutting the shape was easier using a band saw rather than a jig saw, although I realize not everyone will have access to a band saw.  Oh and don't be afraid to sand to get the shape you want, (especially on the nose and tail).
  • Thanks for the tips guys, I was thinking of getting a band saw. I was afraid that a hand held jig saw could get sketchy.

    On my first blank, I used my xt lmfp to trace after bolting it to the blank lining up the back hole on the rear truck, then used the hieroglyphics lined up with the front holes on the front truck. I measured every conceivable point to ensure the deck was perfectly centered. I'm going to attempt the cut and and sand this weekend.
  • Are you gong to post some photos when your done?
  • If it comes out the way I hope, yes lots of pics. If it ends up the way I expect, where it's the size of a finger board because I shaved it down so many times trying to fix mistakes I make, and the loss of a few fingers........no, I'll just pretend I never attempted it.
  • Good luck dude!
  • Don't fall to the temptation of using the Dremel when the sander begins to feel like it is taking forever. The dremel will eat your board up at the curves for the nose and tail. I learned this the hard way. 
  • Thanks for the tip, I bought some 80 grain for the belt sander to do the edge shaping.
  • I'm thinking about doing the uncut blank thing too. I'd go for a mountain family kick nose shape that's as long but shrunk width wise a bit.. That or a hawk claw, but I don't have one to trace
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    So far so good, after getting a good trace, I decided I didn't want or need the other nose, I just stuck with the lmfp nose.  With the kick/concave the direct trace gave it a slightly larger nose.  I really like this shape so far, got it sanded and edged.  Next step paint and clear, then stickers and grip and some kind of bottom graphic.

  • I just mocked it up a a little just to get a better sense of the nose and shape, Tracker Arggo's, Tracker 5/16 risers, Rat Bones II's.  I don't have extra hardware or bearings, I need to hit the local shop.  
  • That looks awesome! PP should reissue the LMFP shape and the Cab Chinese Dragon shape with K15, all they would have to add is about an inch to the nose.  
  • Super rad!! I think I'm convinced to do it.
  • Man that's a rad shape with the kick nose..you've done well for yourself
  • Thanks guys, I am really surprised how well the first one came out. I have two more blanks, one drilled and one undrilled that I already marked for old school trucks. I think I'm going to give that one the same shape just add an inch to the nose but keep the same shape. The other one is drilled new school with a 15.5 wheel base, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do with that one yet. Funny, I added the holes on the first one for old school trucks, then realized I could have just ordered a set of 9" modern trucks.
  • Chris , do you suggest getting the predrilled or no?
  • I think pre-drilled, just because it kind of gives you a starting point....especially if you are using an existing deck as a template.  Line up the back truck holes and bolt them together, that's what I did.  I would think that the undrilled one would be difficult to work with, just because you would have to be very careful with finding the center line and whatnot.

    I set the cut deck on top of the undrilled blank and used it as a template to mark my truck holes.  
  • Right on. Thanks for the info!
  • Yeah man, that looks really nice.
  • Dang, nice work, man!  Looks like a winner!

    P.S. Nice Tracker Aggros.
  • Forgot to ask, how is the concave on those blanks?
  • Nice work!. I would second the question on the concave. Slight, mellow or deeper than a black hole?
  • It's about average, not too deep. I'll get some pics.

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