I'm such a noob
  • First time installing platstics on my deck...I fixed my nosebone issue it's straight now...my tailbone is fine, installed that perfectly...but my rails I screwed up...one rail is closer to the edge...top corner sticks out JUST A BIT (1mm give or take) I don't think redrilling is worth it because the holes are TOO close together so if I did end up redrilling to match the rail up with the other I'll end up just having bigger holes...any ideas? I'm an OCD person and hate when things are uneven, I just hope it doesn't effect grinding/grabs...I'll post pics later when I get home *PS I use Ratnuts not wood screws*

    BTW This board ROCKS...you guys are all very helpful and cool, I feel like I'm annoying with all my problems and questions though lol
  • You know what I used to do when I was a kid? I would wood screw everything in place, then drill ratnut holes through the wood screw marks. Always came out perfect.
  • yeah.. that works. im pretty obsessive about that stuff too. i use a ruler and measure across so that the tops of the rails line up. youll be surprised though not all those molds for rails come out perfectly ive had a couple that were slightly longer..slight .. but i noticed it. not a big deal certainly wont affect slidding or grabs. just asthetic only. after doing a couple youll get the hang of it.
  • What I did was clamp the rails in place, use a marker to mark the holes then drill...I guess when I didn't pay enough attention anyways...here are some pics *waiting on USPS to deliver my rat bones*

    The second pic makes it look worse than what it really is I think...if you look at the deck from the top you don't even see it stick out, it's just about flush with the deck


    image

    image
  • yeah if you used rat nuts dont touch it!!/ if they are wood screws you might of been able to slide em in a tad and the edge of the rail could of covered up the hole.. but. it doesnt look bad. skate the hell out of that thing and do the next one =)
  • That sucks it did not come out right. I would just file or cut the portion that hangs out. I am the same about my trucks and wheels lining up close to the edge on my popsicle shapes so I know how it can bother the eye. For future rail jobs I always line up the top like Nick said and make sure they are even. Then I screw the rail in (I use woodscrews) from the top down shaping it to the board curve as I go. This was harder on my Cab Street than say a Steadham or Vallely but came out really good. Marking the rail does not seem to work as well unless the Rib Bones are running staright and have no curve.
  • heres a picture of how i did my chinese dragon. with that deck its kinda tough because of the shape but on the next one start from the top and bend inward as you go down. its tricky but it fits the contour .
    image
  • Thanks for the comments, yeh I'm not going to drill anymore holes, and I don't want to sand or cut the rails as they are NOS and I might use them again in the future....I'll just skate the hell out of this thing and maybe get another cab dragon, or another board in the future...I ONLY ride 80s fishboards that have LOTSA red haha...my fav color and I use green wheels/yellow plastics
  • I just read up on how to refill deck holes, supposedly it is stronger than the actual deck itself when it dries

    What you do is sand an old maple deck, save the dust in a baggie. Then mix in same part of wood glue like Elmer's and mix it until it has the same viscosity as toothpaste. Then cut the corner of the baggie with the mixture inside and squeeze it into the hole (picture bakery chefs squeezing frosting designs on big cakes) then just make sure after the holes filled you even it out to shape the contour of the deck. Let it dry 24hours. Some claim its even good enough to drill through again and not give way.

    I might try it, I have an old Danny Supa popsicle deck somewhere, think its Zoo York or something I don't know.
  • (heres a couple more i pulled from atofskateboarding.com)


    "Rail/nose/jaw/tail/mini-rib etc. holes or screw holes can be filled in and eradicated
    completely with spackling compound, as long as you intend to paint over that area later anyway. I know Jedi prefers to just stick screws or rat nuts in all the existing holes in the decks that he does, and that's what he suggests in his article, but if you're going to be painting it soon anyway, I feel that you might as well get rid of the holes when you have the opportunity. It isn't much extra work. "- The_Green_Monkey

    (courtesy of artofskateboarding.com)


    If you need to fill rail holes or gouges in a deck, don't use wood putty. Instead use spot-glazing putty. DuPont makes a pretty good one. Body shops use it to fix small imperfections prior to painting. It is strong and pliable, whereas wood putty tends to crack and flake apart.
    - Clay Hutz

    (courtesy of artofskateboarding.com)

    I have been doing tons of restore work lately and have come across a really good wood filler/bondo type compound made by a company called Evercoat. It is super good, hardens with an additive like bondo, but has a wood like feel and sands and paints very well. You can also mix in universal tints, although I haven't tried this. I found this stuff at an ACE hardware so I think it is pretty widely available.
    - Olivelawn

    (courtesy of artofskateboarding.com)


    I HAVENT ACTUALY TRIED ANY OF THESE..SO NOT SURE WHICH ONE IS BEST.. TRIAL AND ERROR AND PREFFRENECE I SUPPOSE.
This discussion has been closed.
All Discussions

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

In this Discussion