@AnimalChin - Instead of inventing new wood screws for Tailbones, keep the Rat Nuts and bring them back for the Rib Bones. I don't get this. People love the Rat Nuts. They're classic. They look rad. They work great.
First, they took them out of the Rib Bones, now they take them out of the Tailbones? Sometimes it really seems like they do exactly the opposite of what everybody asks for. This is disappointing.
(If you want some honest feedback from someone who actually uses this product on a daily basis)
Cons: 1) Installing required a countersink drill bit. The plastic threads were not strong enough to pull the screws down into the wood. 2) If I decide to go back with the old style Tailbone it will require wood putty, or wood glue for the Old (T Nuts) or (Rat Nuts) due to the countersinking 3) If you install this tailbone, and grip tape over it, you will be required to punch through the grip tape to replace the tailbone, T-Nuts do not require grip to be punched.
Pros: 1) After completing installation the Tailbone works no different then the Original style. 2) Mounting hole configuration & diameter are the same as original so no drilling was required other then countersinking if replacing an original.
Durability: The Tailbone seems to hold up just as good as the original, It hasn't fell off or loosened up. The plastic threads seem good enough for tail slides.
Personal comments: I prefer the original style over this new style, due to the extra step necessary to install this Tailbone. I like the T-nut assembly much better, it seems to be stronger, and looks better on top of the deck. T-Nuts allow you to install the taibone before gripping, and replacing the tailbone can be done without modifying the grip tape.
Ultimately you can still plug cut it and use your existing hardware T Nuts and bolts,
My other thoughts are: If the price is substantially lower, One could buy T-Nuts and bolts at the local hardware store and plug cut the tailbone. they are not cheap! Although they wont be the hex style like rat nuts, and may be shiny. I can't find any hex t nuts that resemble rat nuts.
O.K., so the tailbone isn't threaded, but the new bolts "self thread" into the plastic of the holes in the tailbone? I guess I understand the concept, but would never trust it myself. I would just drill the deck and the tail bone and attach it the old way.
When putting some old pigs together, I was in need of finding some T-bolts, bridge bolts, sex nuts, rat nuts- whatever you want to call them. Couldn't find them local. Ended up getting them through McMaster Carr Industrial supply. We order shit from them daily at work. These are just the round ones that were on every board back in the 80's. Not hex like rat nuts. I got a 50 pack for like $10 plus shipping. I cheesed out and just got the silver aluminum, but they have the black anodized ones for a couple bucks more but you only get 25. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3062/=10onz1n Part number 93121A330
My tailbone appeared to be threaded, but either way, once you put the screw in it will be threaded. No nut. Just Screw and HDPE. Maybe it was drilled and just looked threaded. Screw went in fairly easy, but very tight.
My son rode the board with it today, and still hanging on fine.
There are some pretty kool T Nuts out there. I like the ones at Lowes have the spikes to hold them in place. I had some in the 80's that mounted trucks, I may do that again. Needs to be some grade 8 quality. and perfect matched bolt
@mr_scary - what's going on in that second picture? The one of the top of the board (grip side) showing the tops of t-nuts? Did you modify the new Tailbone with aftermarket hardware? I don't understand.
The new Tailbone design basically attached like the Rib Bones, right?
Comments
First, they took them out of the Rib Bones, now they take them out of the Tailbones? Sometimes it really seems like they do exactly the opposite of what everybody asks for. This is disappointing.
(If you want some honest feedback from someone who actually uses this product on a daily basis)
1) Installing required a countersink drill bit. The plastic threads were not strong enough to pull the screws down into the wood.
2) If I decide to go back with the old style Tailbone it will require wood putty, or wood glue for the Old (T Nuts) or (Rat Nuts) due to the countersinking
3) If you install this tailbone, and grip tape over it, you will be required to punch through the grip tape to replace the tailbone, T-Nuts do not require grip to be punched.
Pros:
1) After completing installation the Tailbone works no different then the Original style.
2) Mounting hole configuration & diameter are the same as original so no drilling was required other then countersinking if replacing an original.
Durability:
The Tailbone seems to hold up just as good as the original,
It hasn't fell off or loosened up. The plastic threads seem good enough for tail slides.
Personal comments:
I prefer the original style over this new style, due to the extra step necessary to install this Tailbone.
I like the T-nut assembly much better, it seems to be stronger, and looks better on top of the deck.
T-Nuts allow you to install the taibone before gripping, and replacing the tailbone can be done without modifying the grip tape.
Ultimately you can still plug cut it and use your existing hardware T Nuts and bolts,
If the price is substantially lower, One could buy T-Nuts and bolts at the local hardware store and plug cut the tailbone.
they are not cheap!
Although they wont be the hex style like rat nuts, and may be shiny. I can't find any hex t nuts that resemble rat nuts.
However the tailbone does work just fine.
I guess I understand the concept, but would never trust it myself.
I would just drill the deck and the tail bone and attach it the old way.
When putting some old pigs together, I was in need of finding some T-bolts, bridge bolts, sex nuts, rat nuts- whatever you want to call them. Couldn't find them local. Ended up getting them through McMaster Carr Industrial supply. We order shit from them daily at work. These are just the round ones that were on every board back in the 80's. Not hex like rat nuts. I got a 50 pack for like $10 plus shipping. I cheesed out and just got the silver aluminum, but they have the black anodized ones for a couple bucks more but you only get 25.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3062/=10onz1n
Part number 93121A330
No nut. Just Screw and HDPE. Maybe it was drilled and just looked threaded. Screw went in fairly easy, but very tight.
My son rode the board with it today, and still hanging on fine.
I like the ones at Lowes have the spikes to hold them in place.
I had some in the 80's that mounted trucks, I may do that again. Needs to be some grade 8 quality. and perfect matched bolt
At Lowes Home Improvement - http://www.lowes.com/Search=t+nut?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=t+nut#!
Chicago Bolt, turns up this - https://www.google.com/search?q=chicago+bolt&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZgoTj5arKAhVI4WMKHSm7AlcQsAQIWA&biw=1920&bih=1075
T Nut, turns up this - https://www.google.com/search?q=t+nut&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiqg4355arKAhUT8mMKHZiDAwgQ_AUICCgC&biw=1920&bih=1075
Sex Nuts, - https://www.google.com/search?q=sex+nut&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjl0YGi5qrKAhVU_mMKHXEfCtsQ_AUICCgC&biw=1920&bih=1075
Rat Nuts, turn up this LOL... lol.... https://www.google.com/search?q=rat+nut&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzjNWE5qrKAhUB7GMKHbR8CCUQsAQIHA&biw=1920&bih=1075#tbm=isch&q=rat+nuts
The new Tailbone design basically attached like the Rib Bones, right?
They are flat style screws that countersink. And screw directly into the bone, with no nuts.
Opposite of rib bones, through the deck and into the hdpe. The deck is drilled, the bone is pilot drilled