Skateboard Setup Secrets

I thought it would be cool to post some secrets that we have that make setting up a skateboard easier or better.
Here's one of mine:
After gripping a new deck I always set it out in the sun for about 15 minutes. It helps the grip adhere quickly and most bubbles disappear.


  • never heard that but a friend of mine taught me that if u take the axle nut and even it with the axle u wont have to worry about the end of the axle being stripped
  • I'll have to try that.
  • I've had my nuts wear down that way making it difficult to get decent enough purchase with my tools to get them off. Better the axle than the nut imo.
    My tip is if you like really tight trucks but hate the kingpin sticking up too high put a flat washer or two between your baseplate and your bottom cushion washer!
  • Cool info!
  • Use double sided tape when adhering rails to a deck. I use a strip on the bottom of the rail and then double up another on top of that. Not only does it insure the rails is exactly where you want it, but when the screws inevitably come loose, the noise is minimal.
  • I like to have different color bolts on the nose of a pop. I know that's not entirely unique, but something that gives me comfort - even though I can tell the nose from the tail...

    I also like those Shorty's shock pads under trucks.

    And in general, it's gotta be Indy or Thunder trucks, Bones STF's, and classic Bones Swiss...
  • Learn how to drill through a stripped screw head... it is much easier than dremel-sawing the bolts off.
  • the grip in the sun is a good idea, I usually use a hairdryer, or heat gun.
    I first hit with hot, then followed by cold to suck the air out.
  • I do the same with my "front" bolts. I also cut a strip out of the grip tape near the "back" truck. Gives me the two part grip tape look that was a thing back in the top graphics days.

    Back in the day I used a bottom washer from an old set of trucks on the top bushing because the normal top washer would cut into the bushing due to my rock tight. Now I have them a tad looser and don't have that problem.
  • if u break a bearing u can use a clamp to get out that stupid metal ring
  • clips from magazines and use clear packing tape onto your deck as decals.
  • Jb did that to his freestyle setup, except under his clear grip!
  • I had a Santa Cruz Corey oBrien in 1991 that I used clear grip tape on, and put the clippings from the local police blotters that I was in. Small town paper printed every police call, and some of the residents didn't care for skateboarding.
  • I make sure my trucks aren't on backwards.
  • Another truck related one....just because your deck is 10", doesn't mean truck width has to be 10". I prefer narrower, normally the minimum width at the back truck region of the deck as a gauge. Keeps weight down, snappy turning, and wheels don't hang out to trip on!
  • edited May 2016
    I think 159s or 161s are pretty good for a 10" deck.
  • I don't know Indy widths. I tend to use 8.5"-9" width trucks on 10" decks!
  • 159's or 8.75" fit decks from 1987-1990 the best. 169's or 9" trucks usually stick out too much. I prefer deck shapes that were made in the 1987-1990 era. I am currently riding a Vision Lee Ralph Contortionist and 159's fit it perfect. I actually don't like many shapes post 1990.
  • Fair enough. Is there any correlation between the numbers and axle width, or are the numbers just nominal?
  • I believe with Indy the 129,139,149, etc. is the hanger (not including the axle) in millimeters.
  • it is measured axle to axle
  • So the difference between a 159 & 169 is 0.25", which is a smidge over 6mm....yet 169-159=10. So I am confused. Do Indy have their own unit of length measurement?
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