Wheel core too big for bearing

Got some old school wheels where the core is too big for the bearing, so when riding the weight bearing wheel ends up deforming around the bearing, gets hot and rolls slow. Probably ruins the wheel as well
Anyone know any quick fixes?

Comments

  • maybe put some tape around it
  • edited July 29
    I cut up a square of tee shirt and snipped a hole for the axle and pressed the bearing into the core over it, seems to work goodbut havnt road tested yet,, but now have bits of rag sticking out. I could trim close with curved nail scissors I guess. I want something a bit more official.... I thought of cutting strips of thick tin foil but

    @brigade bill I tried tape years ago during a similar situation with really soft roller skate wheels and it weaseled out in a short time, whereas with a square of non sheen rag its not so slippery and a square of cloth is held in place better than strips of plasticy tape

    Problem is the wheels are a bit soft 95a with poor rebound and too large cores,, and the soft core tends to move around the bearing and packing material... if they make bearings 1-2mm bigger I'd be sweet,

    I really need something about 0.5-1mm hard bonded onto the bearing outer, but it must be evenly bonded so the bearings sit center in the wheel

    I cant glue them in I think
    I really need a bigger bearing outer...
  • superglue thick tin foil strips/sheet metal to bearing outer?
  • standard skateboard bearings i believe are 6mm aka a 608 bearing but i know they do make 7mm and 8mm bearings i know skate one aka roll one makes them for rollerskates

    https://www.rollone.com/bearings
  • 7mm thick, 8mm hole, 22mm outer diameter
    I just measured,

    I need a 23mm, but I doubt there is one with a 8mm hole and 7mm thick

    just had a 10min road test with the rag packed core and it works great
    cant trim excess fabric very close though, so looks hokey
    and any water splash will soak into rag then seep into core/bearing seat and hold moisture there and cause rust and rag will rot fairly quickly too
    rag may compress in short time and become ineffective quickly
    even without water splash

    need to EVENLY build up outer diameter of bearing to 23-23.5 mm
    ideally not permanently,
    in case I want to swap-out bearings onto normal cores
  • edited July 29
    I think 8-9mm strips of .75mm thick aluminium sheetmeal
    soft so I can easily curve into core
    even strips of pliable plastic
    probably a type of drink bottle
    a softer plastic to curve around bearing outer
    and can cut with scissors
    yes
  • edited July 29
    strips of firm or hard plastic are fiddly hard to seat and I think they will weasel out
    so I ended up doing the same as with rags but substituted with a thickish plastic bag
    again I cut little squares and snipped a hole for the axle, pressed them in under the bearing and trimmed them flush with a razor knife
    cant see anything unusual at all and easy as to do, took like an extra 1 min per wheel
    over typical bearing install and affix wheel to axle

    Wheelbyte pioneers the oversize wheel core problem
    you heard it here first folks
    me and Rodney go way back
  • glad it worked out lol
  • Clear nail polish applied to the core in several layers to build up the thickness that you want.
  • edited July 30
    Thanks @AnimalChin! here was thinking I was the first as it wasn't on the interwebs

    The polish will be pushed outward when the bearing is inserted.
    Does it crack and come away, fall out when the bearing is removed, necessitating a redo each time a bearing is removed and reinstalled? Or is it flexible and pliable to some extend? Never ever used nail polish before
  • You may need to apply a little more over time.
  • I just tried 4 thin layer squares of household tin foil but they all weaseled out in no time, could be as more than one is very slippery. Maybe just 1 thicker gauge would be okay. Rags and plastic bag still working fine, but gotta buy and try some nail polish.
  • why not those little plastic rings that come on soda bottles
  • edited August 1
    >Rags and plastic bag still working fine, but gotta buy and try some nail polish new wheels.
  • @BackInAction yeah I got a many sets of stf/spf/F4 and more stuff, I just like fixing broken stuff and espinventing new ways of doing shit
    Rodney and I go way back
  • @brigade_bill 'why not those little plastic rings that come on soda bottles'
    I earlier thought of those plastic vials that meds come in.
    The small one is a nice tight push fit over the bearing outer, just need to cut 7mm slices off a vial with a baby hacksaw. And they are thin as plastic, like .2-.5mm, so could be perfect
    The soda bottle rings have a circumference that is much bigger than the bearing outer. Sure you could cut out some part and then squeeze them down, BUT the fixed curvature would be all wrong AND they would be too thick.
    But you're on the right track insomuch as finding plastic rings the right size.


    Building up the core with nail polish seems the best idea so far. But I dont know whether to use a base coat[which is the nail bonding product] or the nail polish itself, or the top coat [which is a hard protective layer] or all three.




    Another thing I found out is its not so much the core size which is the problem here with these wheels, but the formula.

    I found some other no name, not so hard duro wheels, without a hard plastic core, and a looser bearing fit, that does not produce the problem.

    In fact, the problem wheels with cores that deform around the bearing and get hot are actually an ok fit.

    And its not a durometer issue either, as many soft duro wheels with no plastic core and loose fitting bearing cores are fine. I remember my PP 85a bombers were uncored and also a looser fit with no issues.

    Its the formula and probably specifically the rebound, I think. The formula does not bounce back and push back against the forces that seek to compress it, so like a car tyre that bulges outward at the road surface, these cheap skate wheels bulge egg shape around the bearing.

    They are probably fine for riders under 70kg, and as I'm 95kg, they probably played up for the first time during my use. AND it was always the rear axle toe side wheel that would begin to fail as I tend to ride on that wheel the most.

    I should just move on like I did when I stopped trying to improve the turning of trucks with sloppy hex head kingpins by epoxying the hex head into the base plate.

    They are shit and will always be shit, and nothing I do will ever fix that.

    Its a shame that people make bad product.
    A new home built near me is going to leak.
    At least I haven't ended up with a problem purchase of that magnitude.


  • id just go with all three and it sucks for sure and how about some of that flexi-seal lol
  • i lost my long post!
  • edited August 2
    the interweb is deforming around my bare-ing
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