Making a custom deck from an un-cut blank?



  • Where did you get the blank from? I am thinking of going this way too with my Cab Mechanical Dragon shape.

    Awesome to deal with, I ordered a 15wb, 15.5 and an undrilled. I'm waiting to cut the others, I have a new shape coming soon that I want trace.
  • Nice. They are just one state away from Soonerland!. I will give them a shot. Thanks for the info.
  • Might be kinda cool to trade classic shapes on here for un cuts. Like if I had a deck someone wanted the shape to trace out, I could trace it onto some construction paper and mail it. A classic shape database if you will..
  • Anybody have advice on taking an existing shape but shrinking down only the width..?
  • Get a piece of paper that is large enough to trace the original shape onto.
    Trace the shape and bolt holes
    Draw a line down the center of the traced image from tail to nose.
    Cut the traced image in half.
    Lay the two halves over each other and adjust to the size you want
    Tape them together. Trace image on a blank.
    Make adjustments as needed.
    Good luck.
  • Thanks man. I'll probably sound stupid here, but what's the point in marking the bolt holes since they'll change by overlapping the tracings?
  • It is easier to mark the exact center that way. Or you could just fold the tracing in half. Either way works well. Good luck!
  • edited November 2013
    Uploaded some more pics, showing concave and edge...and the final product.

    Skated it for a while in the driveway, felt great.  I need smaller risers though, too much effort to kick it up, but it pops nice and feels good to have a real tail again.


  • Damn brotha! That's awesome Chris!
  • Sick paint job too man. Did you prime it before paint at all?
  • No, I was going to prime and clear, but I Figured I Will just trash it anyway. I Did a blue base, and spritzed it with black and blotted the wet black with a crumpled up plastic bag. Threw the sticker on it and Started skating.
  • Excellent job Chris..

    Make a snakeskin McGill
  • Im serious too.. he should do it.
  • Sadly I'm not nearly that talented.
  • I just finished this one up. Got the blank from Skatepaige. My version of the mid - 80's Hawk bottlenose.
  • Wow, that's awesome. That came out great. How does it feel? How did you do the graphic?
  • Here is the breakdown of how I built the deck.
    1) Got a 10 1/2" x 35" blank from Skatepaige. Used know sizes of the mid 80's bottlenose deck and modded them to fit a 32" dual kick deck with 15" wheelbase. Traced the deck out, double checked the sizes and measurements before cutting.
    2) Cut out rough with a jig saw. Then did fine shaping with a random orbital sander and 80 grit paper. Finish sanded / rounded over edges with 220 grit sandpaper.
    3) Primed deck with white lacquer paint I picked up from Home Depot ( dirt cheap and dries in 8 hours ).This will allow the color coat to go much further than just spraying the color coat on bare wood. Take it from me, it is worth it.
    4) Used Duplicolor Blue Metallic Lacquer paint from O'Reilly Auto Parts ( all the big auto parts chains carry this brand ). Dries in 8 hours.
    5) Applied my own formula of scratch resistant / non - porous clear coat. I own a factory that makes composite products. We use a bunch of proprietary clear coats that are not available to the public. You could use a clear lacquer from O'Reilly or Home Depot. Do not use any clear coats except lacquer. They suck and take over 30 days to actually dry correctly ( if ever depending on the brand ).
    6) Graphics were from Clear 8 1/2" x 11" labels I got at Office Depot. They are not really clear, more like opaque. Printed them out on my inkjet printer and sealed them with a thin layer of clear lacquer ( if you don't they will run the first time the board gets wet ).

    Do not try to use enamel paint. It never really dries. Lacquer is the key to quick and easy painting. If you have a spray gun and compressor, go to a paint store and buy a gallon of high gloss or satin finish pre - catalyzed nitro lacquer. Usually about $ 40.00 per gallon. You cannot get this at a home center, must be a quality paint store. Lasts a long time and way cheaper in the long run than using rattle cans. Cut the lacquer ( even if it says it does not need to be cut ) with acetone, not lacquer thinner in a 70% lacquer, 30% acetone ratio. This will allow the lacquer to go on very smooth and it will dry to the touch in 30 minutes. This will prevent dust from settling in the clear coat while it cures. Set your spray gun at about 40 p.s.i and open the fluid nozzle about 3 full turns to start. Set the fan on the gun fairly tight or you will just overspray everything and not get much on the deck.Adjust the fluid nozzle to add more fluid by using about a 1/2 turn at a time until you get a comfortable amount of fluid coming out. Spray the deck with back and forth and then up and down passes. Make sure your passes go past the end of the deck or you will end up puddling up paint / clear coat on the edges of the deck. If you do not have a spray gun, Deft Lacquer is available at most Ace Hardware stores and works just fine. One can will do a deck top and bottom. Make sure you wear a respirator when spraying lacquer. It is nasty stuff and will give you a wicked cheap high / splitting headache in a couple of minutes without a respirator.

    I would also suggest mounting the trucks and wheels you plan to use on the blank before you trace out the deck.Skatepaige blanks come with the trucks pre - drilled, so this is easy. Mark the end of the truck axle / wheel so you can get the reveal of the deck and truck / axle just right ( don't want the wheels poking out too much ).An easy way to do a basic template to work off of is to put a deck you may already have on the blank, trace it out in pencil, and then mod the shape from there.It will at least give you a starting point. Hope this helps.
  • edited December 2013
    I plan on riding the deck today. Just finished it last night. I am 5' 10" tall and weight 195 pounds. I am built like a fullback and those popsicle boards are just too darn narrow for me. I found a 15" wheelbase is perfect for my size. I have also found that my chances of doing any nose oriented ollie tricks or switch foot tricks are slim to none. At that point, there is no reason to use a popsicle deck with a long nose. So, I just buy / build a deck that suits my taste ( shape, size and style wise ). I just finished my own take on the LM Future Primitive deck. I will post it tomorrow. I had been riding a Saiz Buffalo full size before I started making my own decks. I have found it to be comfortable for my needs.
  • What size wheel base does the Saiz Buffalo have?
  • I think it is 15" wheelbase.
Sign In or Register to comment.